Why the Galician city of Santiago de Compostela is worthy of a food pilgrimage


LThe puppy steam lightly made of oval silver tray waiters represent our table, accompanied with a salt aroma. Compared to enthusiasm that greeted Our previous dishes – Kokls are soaked in the dandelion olive oil trimmed with bread, and the mussels in the orange penetration sauce – its contents now encounter a mild place.

We are waiting with the judgment of the daughter to dig someone else first. And it’s not because we’re polite. It’s because it’s a plate Barnacles – Goose Bartacles – Are we doing well and truly intimidated. Unusual (as I was just a few minutes), they were feeding crabs filtered from the rocks. From the rapid view, they look completely prehistoric, with triangular silver gray branches at one end and a cylindrical leather stalk in another, hiding a fleshy stem.

Fortunately, there is an expert for help to help us in this Galician delicacy. I sit next to the godfather of Spanish cooking: the chef, author and the owner of the seven restaurants José Pizarro, Who is with us in a small but powerful historic city of Santiago de Compostel in Northern Spain.

Goose Bartacles offer a sweet meat award

Goose Bartacles offer a sweet meat award (Emma Henderson)

“Make sure the pointy bit turned away from you, lift the skin stalk to knock it down, then twist it and pull it out,” quickly shows it. José It bites a little iridescent pink flesh that look so light gelatin from the lower piece that still holds. After insisting on a few more demos in a slower movement, we all follow the suit. Once we hang them by opening, we are awarded their famous sweet meat, which has a good dose of salinity, similar to the best pieces of Langoustine or Crab.

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The city of Santiago de Compostela is gently known as the end point of the holy The Camino de Santiago (Put Saint James) Pilgrimage And it is full of wonderful medieval, renaissance and baroque architecture. But instead of walking, I am on a course of pilgrimage such as Galicia famous for top quality shells, especially octopus; Empanadas (pastry filled with meat or fish) and crunchy multi-grip which galic bread, kind of sour acid texture and slightly sour taste. “It is deeply rooted in the country and the sea – it is simply, honest and ingredient,” José explains. “It differs from other regions in Spain, because it is so focused on seafood, but still feels very homely and mentally.”

Nordesiño cocktail is 'breezy and refreshing'

Nordesiño cocktail is ‘breezy and refreshing’ (Emma Henderson)

We started our food appeal here at the Abastos 2.0 restaurant, which runs Iago Pazos, one of the many chefs José, not surprising, knows. “You won’t be able to stop eating Barance,” he warns, and he’s right. Very quickly, we all pick them up as if they were saved peanuts; It’s a salvo that we repeatedly return for another bite of sweet goodness. “They are very expensive to buy on the market – about 90-100 pound per kilogram,” he explains. “That’s because they’re so dangerous to harvest – people can sometimes die trying to get them.”

Here’s that I have another: Nordesiño. This gin-based spritz using local Gin, Nordés, is made of one part of Gin, two parts of Albariño wine and four parts of the tonic, and is served with lemon, decorated with Skewer of three grapes. It is Breezy and refreshing and we all agree that this summer will replace the aperol spritzes.

The key ingredient of GIN is moves (the rest of the pulp and leather) original albariño grapes, which is used in their base spirit, creating a floral and aromatic gin. Were created by three friends that appeared to the idea while eating octopus (octopus), a very galician dish. “They decided to honor Galicia using the most important plants and botans here,” Our guide for our tour of Casa Nordés, just outside the city center. “Six botans are from Galicia, including bay, lemon verbena, peppermint, eucalyptus, sage, and five is from abroad, black tea, cardamon, ginger and spruce.” José says that is a great giant that goes with seafood, “especially things like oyster, scalprikos and slightly cured fish.”

Pilgrims join their hands

Pilgrims join their hands (Emma Henderson)

Food and drink aside (for a moment), a trip to Santiago would not be complete without a visit to Catedral de Santiago de Compostel. The space and intricate golden altar is especially impressive, but it is the roof for which we are moving. After climbing 140 steps, we walk over the roof of the cathedral, a home for a staircase that moves easily, and feels like living Mary Poppins Fireworks scene fantasy. The tour is completely in Spanish, but the incredible views on red roofs are wonderful and there are no language barriers for it.

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From our sublime heights we see unusual vision or so many pilgrims that joined with hands in a huge circle that joyfully songs in the square of the Praza to Donji Down to DonjoRoa below. It is a spectacle even Joaquín, our enthusiastic galic guide, has not already seen and feels the privilege of the witness.

Emma at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela

Emma at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela (Emma Henderson)

After that, and back to the food track, we move on to the Gato Black (black, a small, relaxed restaurant Tapas in the Old Town in which José was able to snatch the external table (not being reservations. Orders for us and goes out huge table – Red king cancer – for approval before cooking. When he arrives cooked, José shows his cooking skills and spills some of the white wine Godello we drink to the shell of mixing together with meat, which we eat on crispy galic bread that is constantly updated on our table. Also orders more of our new favorite dishes, goose barnacles, along with Galician octopus (Octopus in a oil that is pushed in sweet pepper), cokewers with oil and lemon and empanads. It is nothing short of seafood. “There is a real sense of cleanliness and generosity in galician cooking,” José explains. “Not overly complicated – respects the product”, a fact that is very clear from our dinner.

With the city cathedral, the next most visited page is Mercado de Abastos, food market. Given the compact city home is only 185,000 people, this huge market proves that the other religion is the safest food. But it is not just a tourist attraction – it is the appropriate market used by cooks (where many of them decide to have their restaurants) and a place for locals eat and buy products.

Feast of seafood on a town in Gato Black

Feast of seafood on a town in Gato Black (Emma Henderson)

After stopping breakfast in the cafe, another of José’s favorite gatherings, for the bowls of yogurt and toasted sandwiches, cross the road and go to the market. Inside, high arched ceilings cover eight hallways, selling everything from sea fruits to meat and cheeses, with counter-adorns and owners of the attention stalls. Punches are covered with brightly colored fruits and vegetables that seem impossible great, with almost comic big peppers that are easy to size my head.

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I feel like Charlie walked at the Willy Wonk chocolate factory. Glass counters are full of countless different cheeses and cured meat, or many kinds of shrimp, including known Red shrimp (red shrimp); Oyster shells bigger than my hand, the British of the Hairman and a giant brown crab. Hanging above us are the entire legs of Jamón and Wire Salami, leaving only enough space for the vendor’s face to be visible to sell their goods. Each inch counter counter is complex to tins with galting gears in Escabeche or more characer flavored with different spices levels.

Food celebrities in the mall

Food celebrities in the mall (Emma Henderson)

In Corridor Fri, it’s lunch in that, a galic style, where you can take your purchases on the market and cook them for you. “From 13 hours, it was completely packed here,” Joaquín explains. Friday and Saturdays are busiest, though rain and cold 10 degrees Celsius means avoiding crowds.

José Darts between counter and hallway with purpose. On his list are soccades, cheese and butter, visiting the visits to guests. “Butter is the best in the world here,” he tells me and I would like to take something home right away. “I tried to buy three packages, but they said they should have saved him,” he says lightly wicked. Before you go, connect some black pudding and adds it to the list. “I’ll get it for breakfast – there’s pine nuts and raisins in it. I love it,” Choke. Excellently asks the woman behind the counter share to show me a cross-section of the Black Pudding. “It’s the first time I saw him here,” he says. Funds after he found a huge calf attack for only 8 euros (£ 6.,80). “It is the quality of production that makes galition distance: wildfood sea food straight from the Atlantic, amazing beef from the parent galic cattle, lush green vegetables and craftsmen.

It is impossible for you to turn away from the fresh market with me, leaving on some options adapted to roads. A package of ruby-red sliced ​​jamón, Santiago Tart – Delicatically thick and humid bath cake covered with stained sugar closer to the cross (smartly packed in the plane box) – and cans Fancy Bonilla a la Vista Patatas Fritas Crisps.

“This is life, isn’t it?” José says, obviously so satisfied with his transport as I am with mine. Surrounded by some of the best fresh production products, and after meals near my body weight in the best sea food Galicia I feel like I came to the center of my own pilgrims and manufacturers through love, admiration and respect for his food culture. I couldn’t agree with him anymore. Good food is Life.

Where to eat in Santiago de Compostela

  • Cafe: For decadent yogurt bowls, gourmet toasted sandwiches for breakfast, sweet bake and excellent coffee
  • Black cat : Relaxed restaurant Tapas for excellent cooked octopus, empanade, crabs, koker and goose barnacles, who do not take reservations
  • Cafe Casino: Grand 19. century Traditional Coffee
  • Piece: Dinner Michelin-Starred with a tasting menu in the Old Town led by Chef Victor Lobejón
  • Delivery 2.0: Michelin Bib Gourmand has recommended a small restaurant on the market
  • Ospreiro Horta: Go to decadent dishes like black rice with moonfis
  • House Nordés: Gin Tours include Nordesiño and traditional galic lunch in the founder house

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