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No matter where you are in the world, the smell of freshly baked bread is enchanting.
Sheltering from the equatorial rain, I squeeze into a small bakery in a fishing village along the coast of Principe, eagerly watching the flames leap from the back of a large clay oven.
Luckily, I arrived just in time to serve the first batch of the day. As I smash into a doughy mass, releasing plumes of steam, I indulge in a universal pleasure that has been enjoyed for hundreds of years.
Breaking bread is one of the simple pastimes that make this remote island in the Gulf of Guinea so special. Together with the neighbors Sao Tomeit forms one of the smallest nations in West Africa. Much calmer and more relaxed than anywhere on the mainland, it’s more like The Caribbean escape, and the sandy, pristine beaches are equally first-class.
However, unlike favorite winter suns on the other side of the world, Principe remains largely undiscovered.
There are no major chains, billboards and only a few basic shops in the sleepy capital of Santo Antonio. Built during the era of Portuguese colonization, when the islands were used as a base for the slave trade, the ruins of sugar cane and cocoa plantations have since been swallowed up by the voracious jungle.
Having made a valuable decision to reject palm oil projects, residents have decided to embrace ecotourism, led by pioneering sustainable tourism company HBD, which operates three properties on Principe (and recently bought the only other hotel in operation).
The background for HBD (Here Be Dragons) is unusual.
Making history by being the first African to enter space in 2002, entrepreneur Mark Shuttleworth had an epiphany while staring at our tiny blue planet. When he returned to earth, he was determined to do everything he could to protect it.
Mapped: Principles
At first he saw the Principe as a private island investment, but he soon realized that the population – the true custodians of the wild environment – would benefit from tourism. His intention was to create jobs by opening up the destination to the rest of the world, without disrupting the natural beauty at its core.
Located on a remote peninsula in the northern part of the island, Bom Bom (a former fisherman’s lodge) was the first hotel to open. The smart but unassuming collection of bungalows on two banks – for sunset and sunrise – has since achieved accidental cult status. Closed for three years since the pandemic, it recently reopened and I am one of the first guests.
By 6am, it’s already light as I walk along my empty shore. Boys in wooden pirogue boats are silhouetted on the far horizon. Western crested herons feed along the shoreline, while the brilliantly plumed malachite kingfisher add flashes of color to the tangle of emerald forest that covers most of the island. But even their shimmering turquoise wings don’t match the rich jade hues of an ocean so clear they can see 15 meters to the bottom.
While there have been several improvements to Bom Bom, including a recently opened restaurant and a beach bar in the works, growth is still refreshingly slow. Even getting here is a journey, requiring a flight over Lisbon and Sao Tome.
But distance and hardship are partly responsible for preserving this time-frozen slice of paradise.
Here are five reasons why it’s worth the effort:
1. Pristine rainforests – In 2012, thanks in part to the efforts of HBD and the gathering of members of the local community, the entire island and its islets were declared a UNESCO world biosphere. More than half of the mountainous volcanic island is a protected natural park, home to a large number of endemic species living in a rainforest estimated to be 31 million years old.
2. Rich marine life – The waters surrounding the island are also teeming with sea creatures. Humpback whales can be seen between July and October, while five species of turtles – loggerhead, olive ridley, green, hawksbill and leatherback – nest on the beaches from November to March.
3. Delicious chocolate – During the years of Portuguese rule, the cocoa industry flourished on the island. HBD has revived small-scale production at Roca Sundy’s heritage site, a former plantation open to guests. A small shop sells edible and cosmetic products.
4. Paradise hiking – Apart from the beach, the interior of the mountain is suitable for hiking. One of the most popular routes is to the peak of Pico do Papagaio (Parrot Peak), one of several phonolithic towers.
5. A model for Africa – HBD is in the process of launching a new Natural Dividend project that will financially reward island residents for their efforts in protecting the ecosystem and biodiversity. Mark Shuttleworth hopes the model can one day be replicated across Africa.
How to plan your trip
Rainbow Tours offers a stay at Bom Bom as part of a nine-night trip to Sao Tome and Principe. From £3,550pp (two sharing), including half board and flights. Visit rainbowtours.co.uk